Domestic tasks, local animations
Fuel is one of the things that need attention in a motorhome. Solar for 12v electricity, gas for regular power and proper 240v electricity when hook up is available. Each offer different funtionality but you really need either gas or 240v electricity for convenient living.
We had discovered that the electric part of our water heater no longer worked so gas was even more important. We had ferreted through the barn and found our old camping stove. It has a griddle plate! It fitted the barbeque connection point outside the van! Hurrah – no more cooking inside in 30 degree temperatures. Just needed to be sure we did not run out of gas….
There are standard English gas bottles and standard French gas bottles and they are not the same standard (nor are they in any other european country apparently). One has a right hand thread on the connector and the other, a left hand thread. That is the beauty of standards, there are so many to choose from. 🙂 So connection tubes (pigtails) of various kinds are required – and vary according to where your regulator is installed – on the bottle or on the van. Then there is a choice of Propane or Butane and discussing the merits of each on a motorhome forum is to enter into an area of partially understood science and beliefs of a religious fervour undreamt of in contemporary theological debate.

Our English propane bottle (red) may have been running low – the cunning magnetic thermometer device we had bought to indicate the level was incomprehensible. To avoid running out while away we decided to replace it with our spare French butane bottle (blue) from the fermette. We needed the correct pigtail and true to our pattern of not doing something once if you could easily do it twice, we went to Corbigny and bought the wrong one, then went back the next day and got the right one. To be fair to us, trial and error is really the only way to go with this – not great when talking about gas:-( The Butane worked on the camping stove, fridge, cooker and heater. Hurrah! Now we were fully fuelled up and ready to griddle the chipos al fresco next time out.
Before that we had the Fête de la Bêêêle et Laine to experience. (Bleater and Wool – it’s a pun in French apparently.) The star of the show was a flock of sheep that was being driven from another town the day before, spending the night at our local lake, then onto St Saulge in the morning. Too good to miss, we headed for the lake at the appointed time with a modest crowd and waited. And waited. Children grew fractious. We waited. Some walkers appeared who had been part of the transhumance, got into mini-buses and disappeared. Still no sheep:-( Annie, of the brocante last week, was there and discovered that the sheep had stopped in a field some way before the lake and were now quietly grazing after their five kilometre trot along the byways. We peered over the fence at them but it was not quite the same.
The crowd passed the time in true French style and the sheep quietly grazed.
The next day the fête took to the streets of St Saulge. It was an orgy of sheepy delights.
Six different breeds were in town for the show – here are five of them.
The whole town had been decked out in sheep-related stuff: stalls dedicated to weaving, knitting, crocheting; literature and story-telling about sheep and shepherds; shearing and sheep dog trials; high fashion felt garments and low fashion stuffed critters; no article of street furniture was left un-yarnbombed – including the tourist tuff-tuff. (Which I am not sure has ever carried a tourist.) ![]()
Neil felt quite at home in this woolly company.
![]()
It was a hot, hot day. I caused some alarm when my drinking flask exploded. Usually it contains tea but I had experimented on this hot day with Perrier menthe. Walking about shook it up and the lid exploded off. Only a modest explosion but not a good thing in a crowded French square at the moment.
After the story-telling, overloaded with so much sheepy and woolly activity we got back in the car, hit the air-con and headed to Annie’s place nearby. From low art to high art. She had said it was open house to view the gallery of her partner Guidi. And so it was. Not a soul was about but the house was open and the barn was open with pictures and sculptures displayed. What a place for a gallery…
We studied the art on the walls and flicked through those on the stands – quite nice some of them – but no-one came. A very literal interpretation of an open house.
Back to the lake for a dip.
![]()
Skipping lightly over the days in my vain attempt to catch up, we went home and footled about until the local highlight of the summer the following weekend. This was the repas champêtre , promising spit roasted pork (jambon á la broche)
and dancing. The road was closed outside the Marie, trestle tables set up and this great rural summer time tradition unrolled. After eleven years we are now recognised as part of the community and it is nice to be greeted by people we still hardly know but nod at regularly. Especially Neil, for whom nodding and smiling is the main form of communication with French speakers. With a smattering of words and phrases, and huge good will, he can get quite a long way. Taking random seats we are lucky to end up sitting with a group of Dutch visitors who speak perfect English so conversation could flow unimpeded.![]()
It’s all very convivial and the wine flows as well.
![]()
Dinner is served al fresco. The chicken wire is due to another piece of local politics. These events used to happen in the road and on the piece of land opposite, only half of which is owned by the commune. Then the owner of the other half took his bat home and put a chicken wire fence around his part and, for a year or two events were squeezed up a bit. Not sure what happened (well, there was an election and a change of Mayor) but now the gates are opened and we have spread back onto that half again.
![]()
Dinner is served: melon to start, jambon with frites to follow, a piece of cheese (of course) and a raspberry frozen meringue thing. Not bad for 14 euros including music. A great night out – we heard the stopouts staggering home at about 2 am.
It’s hell out there Carruthers, but someone has to do it… The heat is rising again and we are on the move again. This time to the east – the Jura – somewhere we have only visited in passing. It has mountains, trees and rivers though and sounds cool and inviting.
with a marina but no swimming. There is no shade to park in but trees a few yards away by the water. The parkings are narrow, as if marked out for cars but signposted for mohos. Like the couple of vans already there we take our one-and-a-half pitches and, edging our rear overhang over the kerb behind us, discover by ear where our spare tyre is slung. Underneath in a sturdy metal cradle as it happens. No harm done.

We opt for standard this time but our cable is too short to reach the electrical point so we end up with riverside anyway. 🙂 And what a pitch – mere feet away from the river with some shade and satellite reception.
So the solution was simple – the flies could have the shade of the awning and we would have the much cooler shade the trees. The lady at the at the Accueil claimed it was due to all the rain this year. That rain is getting the blame for a lot of things. The number eased off again the next day when the weather cooled a bit. Or maybe Neil had actually killed them all.
Too expensive this one (27.50) but I had expected an ACSI discount since it offered them until 9th July. The dates are not inclusive though and 9th was the first day of full prices. Boo. Too few and too far for the sanitaires but good site-wide wifi and excellent shade (and satellite!). And no flies – so Neil could rest.
Here we are in 1990, in our first tent on our first trip – just behind the dune on the Atlantic coast. Our favourite site until we found Beaulieu. This site really has changed now – it has expanded by acquiring all the plots around it and putting in lots of fun things:-( The coastline has changed too and the dune has been reinforced somehow with boulders and concrete, limiting direct access to the water. We probably won’t revisit this one on our nostalgic wanderings.
This will be in Chambon-sur-Voueize, Limousin. It is a Municipal campsite and therefore cheap (7.80 inc electricity). It is a delightful site – old fashioned, shady laid-back. We do the same sky pondering, judging the angle of the sun for the time of day, position of trees and park optimistically up. Yay – satellite works and shade is abundant.


the recently planted geraniums on the terrace have not died – hurrah! It has been raining on and off here it seems. The soil is therefore perfect for digging up a section of turf to make a bed for a few tomatoes. There is a natural spring that runs under our tiny terrain opposite the house. This spring feeds the lavoir next to our plot and means that the ground there is nearly always well watered. In fact, stick a spade in and, apart from cracking your elbow and jarring your teeth by hitting a large stone, you will find the hole you create gathers a puddle in the bottom. The beauty of this arrangement is that I will not have to water the tomatoes every day in the heat of the summer. Well – that’s the theory and I have three tomato plants overdue for planting out. The other main danger is slugs and there has been mole activity in the past. Hopefully the recent wet weather has driven them to our neighbour’s drier plot. But don’t tell him I said so – he has a bit of a war going on with them:-(
Gallo-Roman remains of Compierre in the nearby woods. This is an amazing array of ruins of what was a substantial town spreading several hundred meters into the wood, complete with amphitheatre. It feels remote and only one other car arrives and leaves while we are there. A site like this in the UK would be a major tourist attraction. Here we wander the full length of the site with no-one else in sight.




I don’t think so. The water is 15 degrees (according to a naval chap a couple of pitches down). Getting in was a series of gasps and yelps and determination. In the past we have been here in August and it seems to make a difference! Also, due to all the rain, the river is currently very high and strongly flowing – usually it runs relatively gently over the stones at this side and only has a deep fast channel over there by the trees. It is only eighteen inches deep but I am worried about being dragged away over the stones because I seem to float on surface of the flood rather than sink to the bottom. Neil seems OK but is hanging on. Clearly women are more buoyant with all that subcutaneous fat. Well – that’s my story:-) I find a stick for anchoring myself and bob about like an oversize pink ice cube.
We have scoured the traiteur on the square for lasagne but ended up with cold roast chicken (very nice). We bought local strawberries at the SuperU – the area is known for them – and they restore one’s faith in strawberries. The next day we mistakenly walk out much further than expected to the Intermarche in the almost-midday sun and find some lasagne in the traiteur section. Supermarket lasagne? Hmm.








Just to make it truly inspired there is a pianist playing Beethoven on the terrace: the music slowly becomes discernible as you walk down the drive to the entrance, and then drifts along beside you around the flowerbeds and streams.
It starts to drizzle so after the frites we decide to skip the next run of the cars from A to B and leave the field before it becomes a quagmire. Parked in a similar field for the Fêtes des Anes a few years ago we, along with many other fête-goers, had a very muddy struggle to leave the mealie-field car park after a heavy burst of rain.
We love these – half loft clearance, half low grade antiques, half jumble sale – we have picked up enough junk over the years to take a stall of our own. We have picked up some lovely stuff to furnish the fermette too such as this pendule, which keeps good time and has Westminster chimes which strike every quarter with only one note missing. On the hour it only ever strikes one. We keep meaning to bring it home and get it fixed by Mr Farbrother in Shipton-by-Beningborough, who has fixed other clocks for us and Castle Howard. But we seem never to get round to it.
this time a nightingale! Truly wonderful. We had heard it late at night for the first time when we brought the car over in April. June is a bit late for them to be singing though and it stopped after a day or two. They sing during the day as well in case you were wondering.

days gardening, riding our bikes a tentative bit on the lanes, and getting sorted out before the weather changes for cold and wet again. Then we just sit it out – no hurry to get anywhere, plenty to do on the fermette. We see from the weather forecasts (yes, we have a satellite dish that gives us the BBC and most other british TV and radio) that the UK is having even worse weather than we are. No real consolation in that though.
I take the plunge and get the really short haircut I have been contemplating since planning the travels. This is not for noble reasons,



We had a muddy pack up of electricity cables and used the water from the aquaroll to refill the tank. We would be arriving at the fermette in the afternoon so we were less fussy than typically about packing up – apart from wiping the mud off things. I can see it is quite a discipline if you are travelling for a length of time. A cheery wave good bye from the farmer’s wife – it was actually quite a nice stay and we would come back again in the dry.
It’s only a lane really and very narrow, but the farmer comes up twice a day in her tractor, or occasionally with some other large piece of farm machinery that lives in the barn at the end of the lane, so we have to leave it completely clear. Rolling back down the slope I park her on the flatter verge 20 metres down the road. We will just have to wait for the ground to dry out before we try again. The weather obliges, the sun starts shining, and a couple of days later all is well – Portia is parked in front of the barn and Neil is eating his lunch in the shade of the (slightly pruned) apple tree.

To be fair, with more sun and less mud it would have been a reasonably pleasant spot. Closer examination revealed that some of the rusty things formed the beginnings of a kind of open air farm equipment museum. All around the edge of a couple of fields ancient and interesting pieces of farm machinery were spaced out for viewing – sadly inaccessible in a sea of mud at the moment though. (Which does not excuse the rusting heaps of other stuff.)
Often in the middle of the night. This time Stella plays a blinder and we sail through! (Not my own photo.) At one point Neil thinks he sees a flash in the side mirror and we may have been caught driving in a lane banned to vehicles our size for a couple of hundred yards. Not altogether obvious that is was restricted, nor clear why, but we got out of it promptly. Now hoping that the French road-fining system does not tie up with DVLA:-( For the rest of the 2-3 hour journey it is an easy, if not very interesting drive: despite having gone “toll free”, and expecting side roads, there seems to be a good network of free motorways in this area. We break it with a stop for bread and cheese in a motorway aire and somehow end up parked among the lorries rather than the cars: feel small as we sit at our table staring at the tops of huge wheel arches manoeuvering alongside.

